Leanna's India Adventure Blog

Wind Down and Return

2007-02-10T22:01:00.000-08:00

My final days in Mumbai (Bombay) included going out to see a just-released Bollywood film which was a Hindi adaptation of "It's Love Actually" featuring six different couples (all hot Bollywood stars) struggle with the ups and downs of romantic love. Not understanding a word of Hindi, I took in the atmosphere...a buzzy Saturday night crowd, loads of singing and dancing...a built in interval (intermission), lovers in separate beds (e.g. American film in the 50s) and no on-screen PDA (public display of affection).

The next day we attended an arts festival, featuring ethnic dancers, puppets, public art and fair-trade handicrafts. I felt as if I was almost home. The attending locals had the same curiosities about the presentations as I did; they were photographing the exact things I was!

Later that evening we packed up our stuff (including two sitars which we had dedicated many hours the day before in purchasing) and boarded a series of planes towards our 30+ hour return to LA. Seated next to me was a 20-something young Indian man who works in high-tech in Florida. He'd been visiting his parents who had lined up a potential wife for him to consider. It hadn't worked out in that he hoped to find a woman with a career who was open to immigrating to America. The young lady his parents had located was willing to live in America for perhaps a year, but truly wanted to raise her family near her parents in South India. The young man was clearly caught between two worlds. While he wanted to honor his parents and accede to an arranged marriage, he'd come to face that he himself had better access to the sorts of women he'd be most open to marrying. Ultimately he admitted that he would consider a "love marriage"....he just had to find the right Indian girl, ideally someone who is now living in America.

My return back home has had its own challenges. Life for me in Los Angeles is not at all as interesting as life in India. I have my patterns and my friends and my job. For a brief while I could glimpse at the uniqueness of the world I call home. The air (relative to India) is fresh and very few people are coughing and sneezing. The traffic is light. Drivers rarely honk...and the kind of mad gridlock we'd experience in the auto-rickshaws in Varanasi and Jaipur doesn't occur. LA women tend to wear muted colors--blacks, greys, and tans...barely anyone wears the hot pinks, wild turquoises and sizzling electric greens of India. And the food? I can't believe how much packaged and frozen food we eat here. In India everything we ate was fresh and freshly made. Other than downing several much-missed bars of organic dark chocolate, I'm already missing the much more delicious foods of India!

My Own Saree

2007-02-10T21:49:00.000-08:00

I had much assistance in properly draping my new saree--an absolute skill for a well-dressed Indian woman!

Mumbai Arts Festival

2007-02-10T21:43:00.000-08:00

Bombay (Mumbai) Waterfront

2007-02-10T21:41:00.000-08:00

Bombay Sunset

2007-02-10T21:31:00.000-08:00

Winding Down India in Mumbai (Bombay)

2007-02-02T20:49:00.000-08:00

The day before yesterday we caught our final 3rd class Indian train from Pune to Mumbai. Having been to a zillion temples and museums during most of the trip, I've felt perfectly content to take in the Mumbai ocean breeze and go shopping. Through Kathleen's contacts we were invited to stay in the home of a wonderful Indian family. They live in a high rise apartment building with wonderful ocean views.

Last night they took us to hear Mohammad Yunus, the recipient of the nobel prize for his work with extending micro-loans to impoverished women in Bangladesh. I was absolutely captivated. Finally a leap from all of the spiritual stuff I've endeavored to be open to to a very tangible discussion of what poor women do when they are extended credit. They do very practical things like buy chickens so they can generate a profit selling eggs, or buy a cow and sell milk. And very rarely do they default on their loans. And who benefits first? Well, their children...who rapidly become better nourished, finish school, etc. More recently the women have been invited to take out loans to buy cell phones...which has led them to be village phone entrepreneurs. And overnight illiterate women figure out how to read the numbers on their handsets...and can even dial with their eyes closed!

Afterwards our hosts screened a DVD they'd produced on water issues in remote Indian villages. Considering that often women may spend upwards of 4 hours a day carrying water back to their homes, the need for safe available village-based wells has made a dramatic difference in their lives. Partnerships with village women and potable water technologies were beautifully documented in their production. I was given a copy of their DVD which I'd be delighted to share with you.

Tomorrow we fly back to America...a long journey back through Malaysia, Taipei and then into LAX, arriving midday on Monday Feb. 5.

Night Lights At Osho Party

2007-02-02T03:42:00.000-08:00

Being An Anthropologist/Tourist in Osho Land

2007-02-02T02:40:00.000-08:00

Having travelled so far and having heard of the Pune (Poona) Osho Center for so many years, I felt compelled to take the leap and join (for a short while). The very first indicator I had that my desires and curiosities might not be a perfect fit was when I was being processed for membership and the center volunteer looked under the computer's pull down menu for my occupation...under A's there were occupations like Astrologer and Acupuncturist...but no such thing as an Anthropologist. We scrolled all the way down to see if there might be a Sexologist (on the way passing Massage Therapist and Palm Reader)...finally I settled on "Scientist."

Processing included an HIV test...when I commented that there are many many others STDs that might also deserve testing, I received no response. Ultimately, I came to realize that rules and considerations at the Meditation Resort reflect the concerns of Bhagwan Rajneesh when he was alive. (He's now been dead for 17 years.) One day he decided everyone should wear maroon...and that all other colors would be distracting. So maroon it has been. And as soon as I was processed I was immediately escorted to an on-site shop to purchase a maroon dress.

So what did I do? Everything to absorb this world as much as I could in two days. I participated in every meditation from the 6 AM morning one to the special white robed evening one, danced a lot, participated in an introductory workshop, and chatted up as many people as I could. Many had been coming for upwards of 30 years. Their lives (and often their careers) revolved around Rajneesh's teachings. Some had travelled in India. Many simply fly to Mumbai (Bombay) and take a bus/train straight to Pune. For them the meditation resort could be anywhere. Some of the Taiwanese visitors told me they were spending two weeks at the Osho meditation resort followed by two weeks in Goa, India's swanky beach-resort.

So why is it in India? Well, Bhagwan was deported from the US (Rajneesh Puram, Oregon) in the late 80s and the only country that would take him was his motherland, India. While he was never well-received as a guru to India's poor, his message resonated exceedingly well to the rich and disaffected youth of the Western world. Today the resort attracts old-timers (now in their 50s and 60s) as well as young seekers from places including England, Australia, Brazil, China, Israel, Russia and Japan. While English is the lingua-franca of the resort...many attendees are hard-pressed to carry on much English conversation (though I tried). Mostly they dance, engage in meditation (which involves a variety of energy release processes including hyperventilating through the nose, jumping up and down, yelling and screaming, and sitting in pin-drop silence).

My conversations with the fluent English speakers invariably led to queries of "what are you here for?" When I'd reply, "to learn about what's going on here," it was clearly not enough. While it had been fine for me to be a tourist/anthropologist during the rest of my visit to India, my "what's going on" questions were generally not welcome. I was gently instructed to get involved. E.g. get some counseling, some personal instruction, or perhaps wear a 'silence' button. When I'd retort I don't have anything that's troubling me and that I'm having a good time talking to as many people as I can, they'd just smile, advising that I'd need to plan to stay a lot longer to receive any personal benefits.

I was especially curious about the white-robed evening meditation. Back in 1987, Bhagwan proclaimed that for the evening it would be necessary for everyone to wear only white. ...not cream-color...just pure white. The theater of 1,000 meditators from all over the world wearing white in the marble floored, pyramid shaped meditation auditorium excited me. I had to attend. And by the time I'd decided I needed to do this, the center robe-shop was closed. I spent the next hour trying to chat up various women who seemed to be about my size, hoping they might have a robe to lend me. Unfortunately there were no robes to spare. ...and so I headed out to Pune's street vendors and asked if one of them would rent me a robe for 50 rupees. They wouldn't. So finally I bought a potato-sack-like-gown for 200 rupees. I rushed back to the center just as the gates were closing and scurried in. The guard advised me that the main auditorium was already closed and that I'd have to go to a smaller room where people who could not maintain pin-drop silence were meditating. (All of these people had coughs and colds).
I danced around for a minute or two and felt none of the energy I was seeking....I was determined to get myself into the big auditorim. I rushed to the front entry way and told the guard that I'd travelled from half way around the earth to attend and could she please get me in. She agreed, advising me to pack up my valuables in a small bag (my day pack was too big). As I was extracting my cell phone and camera, she pounced on me and told me it was too late--that I had taken too long to gather my stuff and that the auditorium was now absolutely closed and that I'd have to go back to the coughers and sneazers. There was no budging her. I just stared into her rule-driven eyes and said "I want to respect your process." Back with the coughers and sneazers, I joined in with all the coughing I could (still having a cold, I did just fine). At one point they began to play a videotape of Bhagwan on a small TV (in the auditorium the tape plays on a projection TV) and everyone listened attentively. I couldn't believe a deadman draws such an audience every night...but then again Jesus Christ, while never videotaped, nonetheless compels even larger audiences.

The moment the process ended I rushed out and witnessed the throngs of white-robed meditators leave the pyramid-shaped auditorium. I filled myself up with their procession.
Afterwards, a huge dance-party filled the main plaza. Lots of wonderfully sexy dancing with people from all over.

And the next day I managed to resell my shmata white robe to a young Israeli who had just arrived. And when I came back to my hotel to pack up, the hotel manager asked if I wanted to change out of the red robe before heading to the train station. He knew very well, I'd been an anthropologist/tourist....

Osho Land

2007-02-02T02:35:00.000-08:00

Entry Gate...During the Day All Participants Wear Maroon

Meditation Dancers

I Become A Rajneeshie

2007-02-02T02:31:00.000-08:00

Osho Land--First Impressions

2007-01-29T23:10:00.000-08:00

Two nights ago we took the mother of all trains rides, boarding our 3rd class AC sleeper car in Calcutta and disembarking this morning in Pune, the home of Bhagwan Rajneesh's notorious ashram. The train ride was a bit like a sanatorium with everyone cough and sneezing all night (us included). I thought I'd caught my cough/cold from the dust and smoke at the Kumba Mela while Kathleen believes hers came on from all the auto rickshaw exhaust in Varanasi. In any case virally we're full-fledged Indians.

On board the train we met Shakti, a 51 year old Indian woman who was returning from her daughter's wedding. As for being an unconventional Indian she pretty much takes the cake. And much of this comes from her 10-year involvement in the Osho world. While she was forced into an arranged marriage with a man she did not care for, she made sure her daughter's life would be different. And it has been. Her daughter graduated from medical school and just married a man she's been living with for the last ten years. Her stuffy father did not approve and boycotted the wedding. And for the last 10 years Shakti has been living apart from her husband...and taking in much of the Osho message of sexual freedom.

The Osho center (called a meditation resort) appears a bit like Esalen does today. Something that was inspired by someone who is no longer here...and with travellers from all over the world arriving to grok what's left. The cafes here are populated by Europeans and Australians wearing maroon garb. I'm tempted to join for the day...how could I travel so far and NOT take it all in? Same time the whole thing looks so dizzying...

Meanwhile we need to find some cough medicine!

More on Sex and Marriage in India

2007-01-27T23:35:00.000-08:00

As I've noted previously India seems to be on the verge of a sexual revolution...one inspired by international TV shows (e.g. Sex in the City), the activities of Bollywood stars, and the stirrings of India's discontented youth. As for hard numbers, arranged marriage very much remains the norm, but much is shifting. Assisted marriages wherein a friend/go-between rather than parents facilitate introductions occurs as do out-and-out love marriages. And for many of the 20 and 30 something parents we've spoken to who are themselves in arranged marriages, they foresee love marriages for their children. And ideas about family have shifted, too. While previously Indian families had upwards of five or six children, now many young couples consider two children the ideal.

Arranged marriage has been practiced in such a way where ones' parents are full party to the activities of the nuptial couple. They declare how many children they should have, when the bride's tubes should be tied, etc. What Westerners might consider personal decisions very much function as family decisions.

While divorce does occur in India, it's considered shameful...and especially in the context of an arranged marriage, it is avoided at all costs. This condition has certainly contributed to what have been considered dowry deaths. While dowry has been legally banned since the 1980s, nonetheless a wife does inherit wealth from her family that can be considered the property of her and her husband. Untimely deaths (the first seven years after the wedding) are investigated. While the husbands' family routinely reports that the bride was unhappy and must have committed suicide, the pressures of arranged marriage are often at the core. Sexual incompatibility can be an issue. Brides report that they are being used sexually and that their husbands don't treat them in a loving way. And grooms claim the bride doesn't excite them...that perhaps she's not as pretty as the picture her parents' received.

From a safe distance I wonder where young India is headed. Will they embrace their version of a Western way? Will they push aside the prudery of the conquering British and before them the sexually restrictive Muslim Monguls and fashion their own versions of an enlightened Kama Sutra? It IS a very interesting time.

The Bengali Way

2007-01-27T23:14:00.000-08:00

Kolkata (Calcutta) is on the Eastern end of India and embraces a whole other way. Rather than the Hindi that's used in Northern India, much of the chatter we hear is in Bengali. Its more tropical here...there are palm trees, hot afternoons and warm evenings. And we've taken in many temples. Yesterday we visited a Vedanta center--on the edge of the river...we meditated along with the other visitors and resident devotees. For many Indians a vacation or a weekend outing is centered around visiting one or more temples. Religious rites are absolutely embedded in daily life. As we sat in semi-lotus position amongst the crowd of meditators Kathleen nudged me and whispered, "some thing's about to happen." Suddenly the doors were released and a life-like sculpture of a Vedanta visionary was exposed and everyone rushed forward and made rupee and flower offerings.

The most intense temples have been the ones featuring the goddess Kali. She's a bloody wild woman who invites intensity and animal sacrifice. Yesterday we patiently waited in a line for about 20 minutes....and then as we neared a small doorway, the intensity blew open. Temple priests were grabbing offerings of red flowers and rupees and we caught the smallest of glimpses of this black eyed dark goddess. Kathleen noted the shoving and screaming were as if we were at the New York Stock Exchange...Kali does set the stage for some very intense yelling/emotional release.

Across the way were a series of perhaps ten lingum (penis) temples. Visitors came to each one, pouring water and depositing flowers and rupees. For a culture with such ambivalence about public sexual expression, these clearly offer important relief (and release).

I Join An Indian Family

2007-01-27T23:10:00.000-08:00

After taking in the Saraswati hoisting rituals, an Indian family asked me to pose with him. (I remain astounded in how exotic I look to everyone here!)

Saraswatsi--Goddess of Education

2007-01-27T23:02:00.000-08:00

Likenesses of Saraswatsi were hoist into the river...and then eventually they wash ashore in the rubble of flowers, candles and other offerings. (The pollution here is unbelievable...but these rites absolutely override reason!)

Temple Snoozers

2007-01-27T22:57:00.000-08:00

Men taking a snooze on the steps of the red temple in Varanasi.

Jain Temples, Calcutta

2007-01-27T22:47:00.000-08:00

The Jainism came out of Hinduism...a highly acetic practice that prohibits sex. Unlike the American Shakers, who are nearly extinct, the Jains fortify their ranks by adopting children. The temples were truly exquisite...filled with silver, gold, and shiny mirrors.

Calcutta Book Mart

2007-01-27T22:42:00.000-08:00

Adjacent to one of Calcutta's universities are countless stalls selling all kinds of books at very good prices. Makes Berkeley's Telegraph Avenue look puny. Then again Amazon.com has not yet hit India!

Human Rickshaw, Calcutta

2007-01-27T22:39:00.000-08:00

Victoria Memorial Calcutta

2007-01-27T22:34:00.000-08:00

Looking More Indian in my new Punjabi

2007-01-27T22:31:00.000-08:00

India Day in Kolkata (Calcutta)

2007-01-26T06:20:00.000-08:00

Sixty years ago India gained her independence from the British. Here in Kolkata we witnessed parades, family outings, as well as many rituals and ceremonies. The most intense for me was witnessing a baby goat being sacrificed at the Kali Temple which is near Mother Theresa's hospital/infirmary. The little goat squealed as it was hoisted into a press and then with one swift whack of a hatchet it was split in two...the back half continued to thrash....

The culture here is quite different from the heavily vegetarian Northern areas we visited. Rather than seeing cows wandering the streets (and even on the train station platforms), here they're served for dinner (and breakfast). Beggars abound...and its a city rich in culture. There are no bicycle rickshaws nor auto rickshaws, but there are human ones! Strong barefoot men tow riders by walking...We dropped by an art opening...witnessed families picnicking in the parks, and likenesses of Saraswati ( goddess of education) being hoist into the Houllihy (part of the Ganges) River.

Yesterday I decided it was high time to start dressing more Indian and purchased the making for the typical woman's dress...leggings, top and shawl. Dropped them by a tailor and tomorrow morning I should be set!

Varanasi (Benares)

2007-01-23T21:28:00.014-08:00

Varanasi is one of the oldest (2,000 years) and still habited cities in the world. And it is a most sacred place. Kathleen and I hooked up here the day before yesterday (me returning from the Kumbha Mela and she filled with adventures in gem shopping from her week in Jaipur.) Everything feels sacred here. The temples abound...each with its own flavor...some with intense dioramas of Hindu gods ripping their hearts out and others the transmutations of Hinduism (Buddhism and Jainism). The streets are filled to the gills with auto-rickshaws, bicycle-rickshaws, horse-rickshaws and cars, too. Skills needed by Indian drivers include a quick foot for braking and ready access to their horns to warn pedestrians, etc. that they're inches from being hit! The light here in the evening and the morning is especially beautiful...and particularily along the Ganges (Ganga) River.

As for me I finally washed the Kumbha Mela dust and smoke out of my hair, slept a bit more soundly and very much took in the beauty of this gorgeous place. It is the prime spot for Hindu cremations...bodies are transported by foot, car and plane from all over India for riverside cremations. The fires are witnessed by family members...and are too sacred to allow photography.

We're off on an overnight train to Calcutta (Kolkata) this afternoon....

Morning Bathers in Varanasi

2007-01-23T21:28:00.013-08:00

Sunrise Over the Ganges (Ganga) River (Varanasi)

2007-01-23T21:28:00.012-08:00

This morning we woke up early to take a beautiful ride along the Ganges (Ganga) River to witness sunrise and morning bathing.

Varanasi (Benares) At Night

2007-01-23T21:28:00.011-08:00

The town was all lit up last night for a special festival...and weddings abounded. It was a most auspicious evening to get married!

Sarnath Mound Containing the Remains of Buddha

2007-01-23T21:28:00.010-08:00

Sarnath features a fabulous archeology museum with relics going back several thousand years.

With Indian Tourists...

2007-01-23T21:28:00.009-08:00

Some Indian tourists thought we were an amazing attraction and asked us to pose for their family photo.....

Durga Temple in Varanasi

2007-01-23T21:28:00.008-08:00

Most of Varanasi's temples are so sacred and so exquisite that one cannot take photographs from the inside. I caught this photo a block away through its reflecting pond.

Inside the temple we made offerings...and felt as Hindu as we could.

Varanasi (Benares) At Night

2007-01-23T21:28:00.007-08:00

We took a fantastic boat ride in the evening...and were witness to amazing pujas (ceremonies) along the Ganges River.

Indian Puppy Pile

2007-01-23T21:28:00.006-08:00

While the lives of many of the dogs of India look difficult, these pups appeared to all be in good shape!

Kumbha Mela Audience

2007-01-23T21:28:00.005-08:00

Some of the gurus commanded huge audiences....

Bindi Packets for Sale!

2007-01-23T21:28:00.004-08:00

Colored Powders for Applying Third Eyes...

2007-01-23T21:28:00.003-08:00

There were countless vendors selling these powders to enhance ones' ritual experience!

Sarees Laying Out to Dry

2007-01-23T21:28:00.002-08:00

Kumbha Mela Bather

2007-01-23T21:28:00.001-08:00

For Women to bathe at the Kumba Mela it involved immersing oneself in the Ganges (Ganga) while wearing ones' saree...and then rinsing the saree off...

With My Guru...

2007-01-23T21:28:00.000-08:00

I visited my Guru, Anand, the following evening at the Kumba Mela. While there was this part of me that so enjoyed being in his presence, I sensed I could take that feeling with me ... and keep it forever. A wonderful gift!

I Find My Guru!

2007-01-21T07:00:00.000-08:00

Yesterday evening I carefully wandered off from my camp, doing my best to not get lost. I walked down a path of night-lit time temples and played with my camera settings to get dreamy looking shots. As I approached the last temple on the row a young man invited me in. He wanted me to meet Anand, his guru. Anand, a very composed 65 year old man with dancing eyes, was holding court around a small fire. He immediately acknowledged me and asked me to sit. He was decked in pretty bracelets and necklaces and popped a variety of questions my way. After awhile I got up and explored more of the temple, as I was about to leave he led me into a private room and introduced me to a couple from Holland who have been visiting him over the last 20 years. They began to explain that unlike other gurus he's a "social worker," he offers private consultations on a variety of worldly matters often to do with sex and marriage. We all chatted about the challenges young Indians face re: family expectations vs. their own dreams. Next he led me into another room and had his cook fix me some chapati and dahl. (I did my best to eat a little though honestly I was not hungry for food.) Then he began to ply me with Ferrer Roche hazelnut chocolates and bottled mineral water and we began to laugh. I sensed that he could follow my mood. That I made sense to him. He invited to stay at his temple...I was tempted. I took some pictures of him...and afterwards when I'd look at them, I'd get this feeling of calm and delight when I'd see those dancing eyes and knowing smile.

I get it! Never knew I'd find such an appetite in myself for such a connection. Very sweet!

Village Girl

2007-01-20T01:31:00.000-08:00

Village Women and Children (outside Jaipur)

2007-01-20T01:29:00.000-08:00

Carpet Weaver

2007-01-20T01:27:00.000-08:00

She shyly turned her head to allow me a look at her face...

Carpet Makers Around Jaipur

2007-01-20T01:24:00.000-08:00

Made to order fruit salad

2007-01-20T01:23:00.000-08:00

Ancient Temples...

2007-01-20T01:21:00.000-08:00

With Our Swami in Rishikesh

2007-01-20T01:20:00.000-08:00

Saris for Sale

2007-01-20T01:19:00.000-08:00

Bread Vendors in Old Delhi

2007-01-20T01:17:00.000-08:00

Ceilings in Islamic Art Museum, Kuala Lumpur

2007-01-20T01:15:00.000-08:00

Peace Sculpture in Kuala Lumpur

2007-01-20T01:14:00.000-08:00

Located in War Memorial Park

Kuala Lumpur Twin Towers

2007-01-20T01:12:00.000-08:00

I'm at a great Internet Cafe in Allahabad and finally can upload pics from earlier in the trip!

Women at the Kumba Mela

2007-01-20T00:42:00.000-08:00

Beggar Girls

2007-01-20T00:40:00.000-08:00

These beautiful girls took a break from begging at the Kumba Mela to pose for picture...

Me, Fantuzzi and David Karp

2007-01-20T00:38:00.000-08:00

Amongst the 13 million people available to run into at the Kumba Mela I did manage to find Fantuzzi as well as David Karp a videographer from Berkeley!

My Attempt at Enlightenment!

2007-01-20T00:36:00.000-08:00

Kumba Mela at Night

2007-01-20T00:35:00.000-08:00

Kumba Mela Bathers

2007-01-20T00:33:00.000-08:00

More Kumba Mela

2007-01-19T23:27:00.000-08:00

How does one describe the Kumba Mela? Burning Man times ten? A religious county fair? It goes on and on and there are no maps. Being that just about everything is written in Hindi with the only English lettering being ads for cell phone companies and Western style snack foods which are everywhere I have no markers. I get absorbed in taking and within seconds I'm spun around and am clueless how to find my way back.

Such a completely other world. A world of gentle Hindu pilgrims...many from small towns who find me a woman with light skin and cargo pants a total curiousity. Those with camera cell delighted in having their friends pose for pictures with me! And here I was believing that they were the curiosities and that I am "normal!"

Yesterday morning I left the hotel for more basic digs at a Kumba Mela tourist camp. With western style toilets and basic beds with heavy blankets it is hardly the standard pilgrim camp experience. (Theirs involve lying on the ground in huge family piles with barely a thin blanket to cover themselves...) Getting to the hotel was no easy task in that the roads were all blocked. My driver parked several km away and we caught a bicycle rickshaw into the edge of the Kumba. Then we walked about another half hour...and eventually got to the camp!

Yesterday was the most auspicicious bathing day of the entire month-long Kumba. Those who dip themselves in the Ganges are released from their sins and receive countless benefits. I photographed lots of dippers. Children splashing and having a good time...sari clad women shyly dipping in. I keep looking for moments of complete transfixation and there are none. To me it all looks like theater--fun ritual with necklaces of small golden marigolds to toss into the water and make wishes, little white sugar candies to bless and crunch on, and red paint on the third eyes of everyone including the attending cows! Many many booths selling the flowers, the red paint, and the sugar candies.

And yesterday was the prime day for prasad, food offerings. At one point I was ushered into a hall where hundreds of pilgrims were squatting in even lines receiving a meal (rice, potatoes, chapati, dahl) in a plates made from leaves. I was seated and then faced that I was only hungry for pictures so I grabbed the pics I wanted and scurried away. Later I sat in the audience of one of the many gurus who are present at the Kumba Mela. There was a live band with a most raucous loud system and he sang. I sat in a huge crowd of pilgrims, hoping for enlightenment or atleast to witness their enlightenment. I clapped when they clapped and grabbed whatever pics appeared to me. Eventually he spoke...and being that the whole thing was in Hindi, all that was available to me was the feeling. No words to clutter my mind. He seemed very composed...and his message seemed to resonate with the huge audience. Possibly something about living this life in such a way that one leaves without a karmic load so that the next life will be a good one. No need to live in such a way in which there is just one life that has to be filled to the max with insight and experience...just be kind and generous in this life.

After a full-day of taking pictures of everything I didn't understand (and everything beautiful) as well as every single family who wanted to be memorialized in my digital camera I was really beat. On top of this were the endless (and ultimately tiring) conversations where I answer where I'm from, how long I've been in India and some version of why my skin is so white. I attempted to wind my way back to the camp. I cross back over the Ganges river bed I traversed in the morning and then believed I was on the right path. At some point whatever markers I remembered were nowhere in site. I attempted to use my cell phone to call the camp and it didn't work. After putting on a really forlorn look a couple of Hindi speaking men came to my rescue. We went to one of the many phone service booths and called the camp for 8 rupees. The camp then tried to explain to them where they were. We walked in circles for probably two hours and they never could find it. Then I met some young men who spoke a little English and after more phone calls they managed to walk me back to camp. I arrived frozen and exhausted. Wolfed down some dinner and attempted to sleep. My driver arrived and explained that he had no place to stay so I offered him the second bed in the tent. He slept and I froze.

This morning I made my way to county-fair style attractions. A booth with a two headed child (looks like it was created by smoke and mirrors) -- ayurvedic potions, cheap blankets, saris and Western clothes. Exhibits on agriculture and medicine. And then a religious pilgrimage walk through where one prays to various gods, receives a painted third eye, a marigold necklace, sugar candies and then receives blessings.

Later we drove into the town of Allahabad and I released myself from the world of wandering aimlessly around a culture so distant from the ones I know. We found our way to a customer care center for my Indian cell phone company and a very poised young woman helped me along with her entourage of male assistants. After removing the chip, replacing the chip, fiddling with the battery, and poking lots of the setting buttons I was again able to make and receive calls. Then she and I had tea and chatted about arranged marriages in India and the impact of imported shows such as Sex in the City on urban Indian women. She suggested my driver take me to the anthropology dept at Allahabad University to discuss my interests and observations further. Hope to get there later today. Then more Kumba tonight. Fantuzzi has a booth--perhaps I'll catch him.

My Kumba Mela Guide

2007-01-18T20:23:00.000-08:00

Drinkers of Tea Offering

2007-01-18T20:21:00.000-08:00

Kumba Mela Tents

2007-01-18T20:20:00.000-08:00

Mom and daughter at Kumba Mela

2007-01-18T20:15:00.000-08:00

Getting to the Kumba Mela

2007-01-18T19:46:00.000-08:00

After finishing shooting our documentary on carpet making in Jaipur, I boarded a train to Varanasi (Benares). First I was seated with a couple of holy men who wore traditional garb and read prayer books in Hindi. Then they were replaced by a bustling family with Mom, Dad and four small kids. They fed their kids smelly dahl with chapati and the kids practiced saying "Hello" to me in English. At some point I began to dream/hallucinate that the kids had attacked my money belt and stole all of my rupees. Then Indian regalia (all bright colors--turqoise, pink, and ornate) began to fly around my head. My businessman seat mate, suggested I looked tired and should go to sleep! At one point I bought a fruit salad. Hand made on the spot and seasoned with garam masala...tasty. And I survived despite that the maker did not use gloves. America is so obsessed with sanitation. Eventually most of the Indians disembarked and the compartment was filled with travelling Russians and Koreans.

At Varanasi I gathered up my stuff and met my driver who got me some breakfast (High end Indian hotel food with eggs, fruit, toast and Indian breads and tea). After finding a place to change travellers checks (most ATMs don't work for me here) we headed up the road to Allahabad. Long drive (over 3 hours). Lots of road blocks. Due to the Kumba Mela there is no truck traffic allowed for the next four days. Miles of trucks just parked. We got through it all and then drove around the back roads of Allahabad to get to the hotel I was assigned to stay in the Grand Continental (my first 5 star hotel) for the first night. All amenities just perfect. And then delicious meals included.

Eventually my driver took me to a spot where he told me I could take a bicycle rickshaw or walk to the Kumba Mela. I walked. Took photos of everything I could see. (I take photos when I don't understand...when its out of my personal realm of normal). Foods, decorations, bangles, colors, strong smells...

Eventually the crowds thickened and I spotted the first tents. And then more. And then more crowds. Eventually I was in the thick of a crowd walking into one of the main thorough fares. People everywere. Carrying things on their heads. Groups squatting together around small fires. More things for sale. Even booths where one can recharge their cell phones! Then an elderly man grabs my arm and begins to explain things. Gets me some tea. Its an offering being given to all... Then I take pics of the different entry ways for the various Hindu gods. Each illuminuated as night begins. People see my little digital camera and request that I shoot pics of them. I do and then show them the results. They all smile and thank me.

As it gets darker I return to find my driver. I'd walked a long way and hire a bicycle rickshaw to take me. He speaks no English. Just raises his hand with five fingers. I presume the ride is for 5 rupees. When we arrive I hand him five rupees and he makes all kinds of sounds. I give him 10 and he's still making noise. Eventually some young men who understand a smattering of English intervene. They explain that he now wants 100 rupees and we all agree that its way too much. They negotiate a fee of 20 rupees. He accepts and then I try to call my driver. I can't understand a word he says...again the young men translate and mediate and eventually we hook up. I arrive at the hotel exhausted.

The dinner is exquisite. Full buffet with foods the beggars of India only dream of. I am so privileged. Both to eat these things .... and to be witness to all of this.

Today I'm being transported to a tourist camp at the Kumba Mela. I'll live there for the next couple of days. The main bathing occurs all day today. Should be amazing.

Carpet Making Around Jaipur

2007-01-16T07:59:00.000-08:00

Today we absorbed the world of carpet making, learning about design, weaving, washing, trimming and finishing. So many people contribute to the making of fine carpets! The best part was travelling out to a village where family groups cooperate in the weaving process. Each weaver (largely women) ties knots using fine strands of wool about six hours a day in between cooking, cleaning and child care. Today's production system includes a local chief of production who oversees weaving, distributing materials and maintaining looms. Woven carpets are then moved to a finishing center where they are washed, trimmed and bordered. Finally they're taken into a central distribution center in Jaipur where they are readied for sale. Considering the vagaries of environmental calamities (e.g. drought) carpet making provides steady incomes to villagers living in remote regions. The carpet - prep workers find their ways into steady day work often through networks of men (and some women) from the same village.

While our goal was to generate video footage towards a documentary on the production process, we were treated more like visiting dignataries than a video production crew. We were constantly offered tea and were personally escorted all over the region to gather footage. The kids in the villages were so special. They loved having their portraits taken with my still camera. Groups would peer into the lens and then especially bold ones would request personal portraits! Several of the shots came out amazingly well! When the regions' mid-afternoon black out occurred (daily between 3-5 pm), Kathleen's video camera became useless and I blasted through several of my 256K chips, shooting video clips with my little still camera. My stuff turned out great, but gotta find a place to burn all this stuff onto a disk so I'll have chip space for the Kumba Mela (I travel down there tomorrow). Kathleen's current plan is to stay here in Jaipur for a couple of more days while I'm determined to get to the K. Mela in time to witness the January 19th baths. I gather there will be 13 million there. Unlikely there will be Internet access there, so this may be my last post for a while.

Pictures!

2007-01-15T10:06:00.000-08:00

East West Conversations

2007-01-15T09:32:00.000-08:00

So much of what charms me here are the differences between the Indian and Western approaches to conversation. The last couple of days we've explored archeological constructions of 15th century monuments...Fatapur Sikri and the Red Fort in Agra sported extensive holdings for zillions of concubines. And some of our young male guides were amazingly informed about the nature of sexual activities that occurred between the monarch and all the women, especially when I'd mention that I'm a sexologist. Then I'd hear about the condoms made from animal intestines, fellatio, and parchesi games using slaves girls. It was also demonstrated how the walls of the concubine cells could transmit private messages. (One talks into one corner and hears the message loudly from another end of the cell). Eventually one of our guides revealed that he was scheduled to be married (in an arranged marriage) next year. In that his only sexual experience had been with his own hand he was in desperate need of some pointers. His candidness was too sweet for words. What a challenging culture he lives in!

Today was my birthday and of course everyone wanted to know how old I am. Kathleen thought I should keep it secret (very middle-aged American female) while every Indian I've engaged readily discloses. I love being in a place where all ages are fine and welcome. Yes and I happily turned 54 today!

Hard to pull off a party in a place where I know no one. But the day was full of fun. We packed up our bags at our Agra hotel and were driven in a private car to Fatapur Sikri. Beyond exploring the gorgeous ruins (some still in the process of reconstruction) we were intensely accosted by trinket and jewelry hawkers. They were all so desperate...and so intensely demanding. If she bought something, 10 more would surround me chattering hard about how I needed to buy something, too. At one point I made a video recording of one of the hawkers hawking and then played it back to him--just to be irritating. He only took it as added fodder for me to absolutely buy something from him! And even when I sought refuge in the car they pounded on the windows and thrust necklaces and bangles at me. There's an intensity here I've never ever seen anywhere before!

Later we stopped at a posh tourist restaurant and ate from a delicious buffet. Suddenly I realized we hadn't been served meat in nearly a week. We ate in the garden and the wait staff were kind and well-mannered. So many different Indian worlds!

Then later we stopped along the side of the road so I could photograph the cool stacks of buffalo patties (used as cooking fuel). Then a little horde of enthusiastic children rushed in front of my lens. Every time I attempted to frame a picture, a couple of extra heads would pop in. And of course they all wanted to look over their digital image right afterwards. They were SO fun! While the pictures lack my signature ability to frame things well, they do tell a fun story.

The Taj Mahal

2007-01-14T03:41:00.000-08:00

I'd seen pictures for ever...but honestly engaging it in person brought me to a whole other level. I left my hotel in the early morning cold. Walked. Wanted to feel the journey rather than take one of the taxi rickshaws. The Taj Mahal started appearing in the gray distance. Soon I was on the grounds. Entry ways. Passages. Then up some stairs through an arched building as the domes gradually unfold. This 17th century mausoleum was built by Shah Jahan to honor is favorite wife Mumtaz who died while giving birth to their 14th child. Its a marble testimony to his love for her. Lacy cut outs...fine decorations...her crypt in the very center. His years later to her side. We sat quietly. Composed photographs. Assisted other visitors in creating that signature Taj Mahal photos. Heard stories... Enterprising Indians attempted to offer their photographic services and their beautiful saree smocked bodies for little fees. We bought. Engaged. Its one major monument.

Later we went to the Red Fort. Also impressive...with so much story. 3,000 concubines who existed for the reputation and the pleasure of their master... Damn rulers in those days knew how it get down to basics in asserting power and dominance!

Love and Marriage in Today's India

2007-01-13T06:35:00.000-08:00

Today was extraordinary. During our 11 train ride from Haridwar (near Rishikesh) to Agra we found ourselves in a sleeper cabin with a couple of expectionally bright and thoughtful Indian women and their children. One holds an MA in Political Science and the other is a Professor of Computer science. My discussions with them began with politics and moved onto religion, spirituality and ultimately love and marriage. I had such fun! India is absolutely in the midst of a sexual revolution. The computer science professor spoke about her love-marriage to a man of a lower caste. She had dated only him...and ultimately lives with him (in a private room) in the home of his parents. Being of different castes she's experienced some challenges. The family cooks more simply than her own family does. The political scientist was travelling with her 12 year old son who goes to boarding school. He was filled with modern ideas -- and unlike his mom who is an arranged marriage, he absolutely knows he'll have a love marriage. While his mother explains that arranged marriages provide support from the both families when there are problems, her son is smitten with modern ways! When I ventured some speculations that the breakdown of arranged marriage could easily be seen as a harbinger for the breakdown of Indian society she listened carefully. If extended family is no longer party to a marriage, divorce would be resorted to more readily. Divorce rates are already rising in India both for love marriages as well as arranged marriages. Ultimately if dating hits India in a big way (we just browsed a teen-oriented mall here in Agra with groups of young people going to movies and buying snacks at the Food Court), there will certainly be a rise in out-of-wedlock births...and with India's ban on abortion, independent-minded girls are very likely to become single mothers by choice rather than marrying into restrictive patriarchal families. Even the young men working at the food court counters yacked enthusiatically about their personal interest in a love marriage!

And spirituality? Well our seat mates on the train do not practice yoga nor meditation (clearly more the concerns of new age seekers in Rishikesh) than modern Indians. They spoke about their brand of Hinduism. They were each aligned with one Hindu god, Vishnu either in this original form or in one of his incarnations: Krishna or Rama. Their engagement of spirituality seemed little different than modern Americans who engage in occasional/perfunctory attendance at church or synagogue. Nonetheless they hold strictly to their practice of vegetarianism, contending that eating living things is against their religious/moral code. Sounds so akin to American Jews eating a semi-kosher diet (pork and shrimp are only OK at a Chinese restaurant) or American Catholics who endeavor to eat fish on Fridays with little sense of the meanings behind these practices. Moreover the precocious 12 year old ordered a non-vegetarian breakfast for himself. Meanwhile his Mom munched on home made Indian delicacies. Her sweets were exquisite as was her channa (spiced garbanzo beans).

This data gathering is all working out so well! Somehow I knew that it didn't really matter where I went or what I did during this month in India...that stories would just arrive in my lap. And they certainly have!

More from Rishikesh

2007-01-12T06:03:00.000-08:00

Sometimes it seems like we're living in our own private movie with India as the backdrop. Smokey skies, bright colors, bottled water, sweet aromas and beggars of all sorts. We're beggars, too. Begging to take photos of all the things we can't otherwise make sense of...a world SO different and yet not fully unfamiliar. In our own movie we're the stars...two fifty-something women with their own rich lives and concerns,now with all the space in the world to tell each other their stories. No editing. What else can one do in world that just barely makes sense?

And what of the Rishikesh world? Well the town is populated in part by gurus and sadhus who are trying their best to pull in some rupees. They sell enlightenment through yoga/meditation from their funky hillside ashrams. How would one ever know which one to follow? This morning we wandered in the ashram of Swami Premvarni. He's 75 and found his way to America during 1979-1980. I tried my best to follow what he had to say...but honestly it flew right by me. Thick accent and a gobble of words. He did seem peaceful with his knit can, plastic sandals and orange-colored robe. We took pictures with him...who knows it could be an auspicious moment.

And the other gurus? Well many of them just beg. Sitting on the side of the road with a tin cup and deep eyes. Others sell chapati, sweets, sandalwood and all sorts of bangles. And then there are all the bonafide merchants selling richly embroidered hangings and all sorts of Indian clothes. Yes, they're lots cheaper than at home...but is it my mission to compete with Cost Plus???? (I don't think so)

Perhaps our signature swami moment was yesterday while walking across one of the bridges that traverses the ganges a bearded swami-type approached us and thrust small wet marigolds in our hands. Then we were instructed to repeat a prayer after him and then toss the flowers and some sugar crystals into the river. Afterwards he wrapped our wrists in yarn bracelets and painted a red blotch between our eyes. And then afterwards? He asked us for a 150 rupee ($3) donation... and of course we took photos to remember this moment, too!

Where is the authenticity in India? Is it all just for sale?

While the Indians are doing all they can to make some rupees, Western seekers wander down the narrow allies of Rishikesh. Some have a decidedly vacantly look in their eyes. Here to fill themselves up. Perhaps someday I'll understand.

Just chatted with a middle-aged woman from Baltimore who comes here every year to sit with a realized being. Gotta check this out. Who knows maybe I'll realize something, too!

We finished the day with an Auervedic massage. A combo of pulling, pounding, accupressure, then lots of oil and then a wonderfully funky steam bath. My masseur was a cute 25 year old who told me about all of his foreign girl friends. His most recent was from Japan. He's so in love with her. What to do? Hope that me returns to India soon? Does he have any interest in marrying an Indian woman? (hardly) And an arranged marriage (not in this lifetime!)

Oh, this is so fun!

Hi from Rishikesh

2007-01-11T06:09:00.000-08:00

We're in the thick of "new age on sale" here in Rishikesh, a town the Beatles put on the map of the Western world back in 1968. Store after store is filled with Tibetan prayer bowls, sandlewood, incense and then offerings of yoga classes and Auryuvedic massage. We did wander into a river-side Ashram which was all in Hindi...peaceful and contained. Mostly the commoditization of spirituality for the Western pocketbook is an uncomfortable sight to behold.

So different from our Delhi visit to the Swaminarayan Akshardham where throngs of Indians (as well as a smattering of Westerners) took in the huge and amazing complex. The temple is so new (just completed in 2005) that its listed in very few guide books.

Yesterday (our second day in India) was another amazing day. One of my favorite moments was riding on a bicycle rickshaw through Old Delhi. Our bicylist/driver barely spoke English, so when we wanted him to slow down I just poked his back. It was like New York's lower east side X 50. Tons of shops selling both wholesale and retail of everything from sarees to beads to fried breads to spices, jewelry, etc. I'd focus my camera on one thing and within seconds something else would pop into my frame and I'd still have an amazing picture. I can't remember the last time my eyes popped so much!

We also visited Delhi's Natural History Museum--amazing artifacts from the earliest cultures of India (Harappan culture which existed between 2000 and 2700 years ago). Many renditions of the Hindu gods followed...some just amazing to behold. Makes one so appreciate the beauty of polytheism (and feel sad over the global impact of monotheism).

A favorite moment in the museum which witnessing a group of visiting Buddhist monks circling and chanting around an exhibit that contained the remains of Buddha. Whoever said museums should just be for tourists and scholars? Nothing like being witness to believers in action!

Our guide also took us to more monuments--Ghandhi's tomb (beautiful site with flowers, an eternal flame and beautifully appointed gardens), the Red Fort (very red and still in use) and a huge Muslim Mosque. I photographed moments of worshippers absorbed in prayer and then some tourists from Philly wanted me to photograph them with the largest parapet behind them...and so to play along, I had them photograph me!

We spent the evening with Rosalyn, a literature grad student and Gotham who works at a Delhi social policy think tank. We had fabulous conversations about changing mores in Indian society...how arranged marriages are no longer the norm for all Indians...that dating is increasingly practiced amongst young Indian professionals, that key exchange type swinging occurs amongst sophisticated couples in places like Bombay and Goa and that living with a lover is also being practiced here and there. And then just to add to my sexological data base, one of our drivers asked us an infection-related question that seemed to reveal the possibility that he'd been having sex with someone other than his wife. Suddenly floodgates of curiousity opened and I began to pump him. Was he having an affair? With whom? Was this common amongst people in arranged marriages? I felt the challenges of love and marriage in India crumbling into my finger tips. Yes waiting until ones' mid-20s to marry a virtual stranger is often a recipe for sexual misinformation and incompatibility. While the Western world's practice of love marriage hardly ensures the durability of marriage (divorce is still low in India), India today is an especially hard place to be happily married. Young couples are provoked from all sides--there are the sexy movies from Bollywood, and we must not forget that India is also the birthplace of the Kama Sutra. What a lot of historical and cultural baggage to carry!

First Day in India

2007-01-09T09:08:00.000-08:00

We arrived at the Delhi airport late last night and India unfolded. Some as I expected and much just utterly amazing. Snapshots

As our driver pulled out of the airport parking lot we were stopped for at least 10 minutes as hundreds of pilgrims returning from Mecca crossed the road carrying white sacks of clothes on their heads.

Driving into Delhi there were people camped out in the middle of the road building fires to stay warm. (It is cold here)

Dogs live on the street..all short-furred third world beings with a love of barking all night.

This morning we were taken to the Imperial Hotel. One of the poshest hotels I've ever seen. Our own digs are a sweet Guest House. Adjacent to the Imperial are beggars, more encampments of street dwellers and gray smoggy air.

We toured the Anasuyuara (sp?) temple complex. Just finished in 2005. It is huge and utterly amazing. Wood and sandstone carvings. Elephants...a sweet and gorgeous boat road (an Indian version of a Disneyland ride)... Most of the visit was completely transfixxing. I'd never ever seen anything this huge and this thoughtful. I'm ready to join!

The Internet Cafe owner wants to shut down. So more tomorrow.

Hi from Kuala Lumpur

2007-01-07T17:36:00.000-08:00

Yesterday we spent most of the day cruising over the Pacific Ocean in comfy Malaysian Air planes. The flights (one to Taipei and the other to Kuala Lumpur) were nearly empty. We grabbed mid-section rows for ourselves and stretched out like goddess-queens. We were offered tasty food and drinks from servers from both aisles and gorged and slept and gorged some more.

Arrived in Kuala Lumpur about 4 am this morning. Malaysia is celebrating its 50th year of independence this years...and its a very spiffy place. The airport is ultra modern and the hotel where the airlines have put us up for the today is a tropical resort. We'll head out to visit the tallest building in the world in the city center in a little while and then board our evening flight to Delhi.

Lots more getting ready

2007-01-03T17:55:00.000-08:00

We're in high gear for the trip. Put together the final touches to our itinerary including visits to Rishikesh, Pune, Agra, Jaipur and Varanasi as well as Delhi, Calcutta and Bombay. Can't believe we're just days away from leaving.

Getting Ready

2006-12-31T17:29:00.000-08:00

We (Kathleen and I) are scheduled to leave for India on Saturday January 6. We'll be travelling by way of Malaysia with time to wander around Kuala Lampur before flying into Delhi. Everyday we get new ideas for what we must do and what ought to be avoided. Stay tuned for our arrival in Delhi!